For inveterate castle-hunters like myself, well, you can imagine what a treasure trove the Loire valley is. From ancient mighty fortresses to the fairy-tale castles of the 18th and 19th centuries, they were compelling witnesses to history, and such a wonder to visit. Much of the Loire valley, including its chateaux is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Here’s a small selection…with history galore…I won’t bore you with a description of all the great artwork and period furniture, unless really special, like the Tapestry below – you know they will be full of ‘stuff’, I will concentrate, instead on pictures and the unique history of a few. The selections are purely to my, and I hope, your taste, so…
Chinon – a Royal Fortress, really three castles in one, was built in the early 11th century, impressive, dominating, a strong-point, built on a crag, hard to assault… and witness to much of the turbulent times between England and France, including a certain Joan of Arc. Before Versailles, before the Tuileries, Chinon was a royal residence for some centuries.
But, Chinon hides a terrible tale of jealousy, treason and revenge by the power of King Philip IV of France against the upstart order of the Knights Templar, who had amassed considerable wealth and power from their founding in 1119 to protect pilgrims to the Holy Land and holy sites, to that terrible day in 1307.
By the 13th century, the Templars were a truly international military order with tremendous resources at their disposal, even a naval fleet – just too much for the King. Largely a law unto themselves, they had become a military threat – the King owed them vast sums of money that he had borrowed from them, they were the bankers of the day. The Templars had vast holdings in France which Philip coveted. They had built a chain of monasteries across Europe and the Holy Land where one could deposit money, receive a chit in their name and cash it at any other monastery.
Then the whisper machine started. They were accused of sodomy and devil worship, bizarre initiation ceremonies, all manner of deviancy from the Catholic Church. At first, Pope Clement V supported them and denied the allegations, but…way too powerful…so…the Pope, to his disgrace gave in to Philip (his relative) and it was here, in Chinon, on Friday the thirteenth (!!) October 1307, that the Grand Masters of the order were imprisoned before meeting their undeserved fate in fire in Paris. Grand Master Jacques de Molay cursed the Pope and the King while on the pyre, predicting they will meet God soon.
Clement died a month later, and Philip within a year of a hunting accident.
The fortress has interactive displays of Templars and their connection to Chinon.
The Chateau d’Angers, is another medieval fortress. For a truly fine example of a stronghold, built as a bulwark against your enemies, this is it. It was the seat of power of the Angevin (read English/Norman) kings during medieval times, until they were booted out by the Anjous. Because of its favourable and strategic location, it had been a Neolithic sepulchre, then a Gallic Oppidum, then a Roman nobleman’s extensive palace. But the current fortress was built by good King (Saint) Louis and enlarged by Louis I and Louis II who held wild parties within. The place was never conquered. It was battered with cannon during the Vendee rebellions, but after a few days the attackers gave up.
This place has something quite extraordinary: the Apocalypse Tapestry.
Everyone has heard (I think) of the Bayeux Tapestry but it is a mere 70! meters long, and 20 inches wide – a baby, compared to the Apocalypse at 140!! meters by 6 meters high - hugely expensive at the time, commissioned by King Louis I and tells the story of the Apocalypse from the Book of Revelations (St. John the Divine).
OK, Ok, the Bayeux was woven in the 11th century, whereas this one is three centuries younger. Still, it is considered to be a masterpiece of French cultural heritage, and the only one to survive the vicissitudes of the intervening centuries.
Azay-le-Rideau, resting on an island, seemingly afloat and mirrored in the river is one of the most visited of the Loire chateaux, all the rooms are furnished in period styles and it features, as do many others, a Son et Lumiere show in the evenings of July and August, called Les Nuits Fantastiques.
Yes, a tragic tale…built in the early 16th century, it is a fine example of early Italianate Rennaisance architecture. Originally a stronghold castle from the 12th century, it was burnt to the ground during internecine feuds, and remained so until 1518, when it was purchased by Gilles Berthelot, the King’s Treasurer-General (can you see it coming??) and his wife Philippa Desbahy, who did most of the renovating, until, Gilles’ brother was executed for embezzlement and Gilles skedaddled, and died in disgrace, and poor Philippa was kicked out by the King, Francis I, who gave it to one of his knights. So it goes.
Chateau Chambord: outrageous, hugely unnecessary, a vast Renaissance extravaganza - started by Francois I, who wanted the roofscape, with its 11 kinds of towers, 3 types of chimneys, without any sort of symmetry, to resemble the skyline of Constantinople all akimbo (although, how he would know what that looked like anyhow…). Then there is the unique double spiral staircase, with separate opposed entrances on each floor. There is a kind of light house at the highest point of the chateau which illuminated the staircase from the top. It is rumoured that Leonardo had a hand in its design, as da Vinci spent his last few years nearby at the Chateau de Clos Lucé, surrounded by his students.
Chateau d’Usse, right… so this one is a bit weird. It’s cute, with lots of turrets and the inside is nicely furnished, but whoever decided to place spooky-looking mannequins in period costume in a misguided attempt at authenticity all over the place will just scare the kids, who came to this chateau because it is the setting for The Sleeping Beauty. This was written as part of about 12 fairy tales by Charles Perreault, including such beloved ones as Little Red Riding Hood, Puss in Boots, Cinderella and Bluebeard, and collected under Tales of Mother Goose.
Perreault was inspired by the charming appearance of Chateau d’Usse, to base Sleeping Beauty here, and, of course, the chateau has made good use of the connection, with rooms dedicated to the prince and princess, the wicked witch and the old woman (really the witch) with the fateful spinning wheel and spindle ( a bit tacky, but…). It is also said that the chateau influenced Disney’s famous Cinderella Castle, but I demur, as I believe much more likely that it was inspired by Mad King Ludwig of Bavaria’s Neuschwanstein Castle. (He died mysteriously, after he bankrupted his small country with his building projects. He was found drowned… hmmmm.)
Chateau d’Amboise, birthplace and home of Kings, set high on a promontory overlooking the Loire, and, of course, built upon the foundations of an old fortress, and an even older Gallic oppidum, offering solid defense against intruders, could be said to bear witness to the start of the French Renaissance, with Francis I, an almost humanist, except in his later years, well read, creator of a standing library, and patron of the arts a la de Medici. By the way, the same Francis sent Jacques Cartier to explore the St. Lawrence river in Quebec to find, “certain islands and lands where it is said to be much gold and other riches”, ummm, not.
His grandfather, Charles VIII loved the chateau, rebuilt it extensively, but is a tragicomic figure, as upon retuning to Amboise from a lost battle - Phase 1 (of many) of the Italian wars - hit his head on a lintel, shortly fell into a coma and died. Sic transit gloria.
Chateau Chenonceau, my favourite, the jewel of the Loire chateaux, is the most visited and photographed among the Loire Chateaux. It is so unique and evocative, riding on the river Cher; originally a small fortress of the 15th century, of which only the main tower (keep) and the dungeon have survived as the rest was torn down by its new owner, Thomas Bohier, in 1521, who replaced it with a Renaissance style chateau. It was built in three stages until it arrived at its final look: the keep and the chateau in 1517…then 30 years later, a bridge was built to the opposite shore of the Cher, then by 1559, the bridge was built up and roofed over to create a 60 meter long gallery/banqueting hall and ballroom.
Chenonceau is known as the ladies’ chateau because it was a succession of women who oversaw the constructions while their men were away engaged in nasty wars, or at the court, groveling for favour. Bohier’s wife, Catherine Briçonnet oversaw the original chateau’s construction and delighted in hosting the nobility including our ‘friend’ François I (who has a room in the place named after him).
In 1535, the crown seized the chateau for unpaid debts, and then Henri II offered the chateau as a gift to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. Diane loved her new residence and she is the lady who had the bridge built across the Cher. She also laid out four extensive flower and vegetable gardens and a variety of fruit trees.
After Henri’s death, the castle was seized by the Queen, Catherine de Medici. Catherine spent a fortune on the chateau, had the grand gallery built on the bridge and indulged in lavish parties, as the regent of France, until her son came of age.
After Catherine’s demise, it passed to Louise of Lorraine, wife of Henri III, who went mad upon hearing of Henri’s assassination and walked the halls of Chenonceau for 11 years.
Gabrielle d’ Estrées, mistress of Henri IV was next, a powerhouse lady and with her sister Catherine did much to end the French wars of Religion.
Phew, more women: in 1733 it passed to Louise Dupin, a patron of the theatre. Her literary salon at Chenonceau attracted the hoi polloi of the day: Voltaire, Rousseau, Montesquieu, etc., and was instrumental in saving the chateau during the French Revolution.
In 1864, Marguerite Pelouze, a rich heiress acquired it, spent fortunes on alterations and elaborate parties and went broke. The Chateau was seized and sold.
Finally, the chateau was acquired in the early 20th century by the Menier family, famous chocolatiers, who restored the dilapidated chateau and still own it to this day.
For my taste, Chenonceau has the best collection of period tapestries and furniture, as well as an outstanding collection of paintings by Rubens, Tintoretto, Van Dyck, Veronese, and half a dozen others – sculptures by 15th century Florentine master Mino da Fiesole.
There are others, worthy of mention – you could spend a week here – Villandry, with its amazing gardens; Cheverny, a rarity, owned by the same family for six centuries and built in the modest 17th century style; Montresor has a very homey, lived in feel, with very fine furniture, excellent paintings, billiard room and still owned by the descendants of a Polish count who live here.
However, for us, Chenonceau was the apex of our short trip through the valley.
And, I hope, this is a fitting end to a short stroll through the Loire Chateaux for you.
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