OK, so you’ve decided to put off visiting the Amalfi Coast, too expensive, and you have decided to come to Tuscany instead, for the wine, the sights galore, the remarkable countryside – roads lined with those impressive Italian Cypresses… a great choice, and, tucked in a northwest corner of Tuscany, on the coast, the mini Amalfi Coast awaits to be explored, hiked, (even eaten and drunk)… the Cinque Terre. You are in the southern Italian Riviera. Five coastal towns at the bottom of five canyons, connected by the Sentierra Azzurro (Blue Trail among others), winding its way from town to town for a total of 12 Kilometers, which can be done in one day, at a pinch, but what’s the point. You are here to enjoy the hike, the towns, the scenery, to take it easy(er) after the frenetic bustle of Florence, or Lucca or Volterra (or whatever).
You can take your car on crazy, narrow, twisty roads, to these villages, but there will be no guarantee of a parking spot when you get there – the lots are far from town, the spots few, and the villages themselves are car-free. Your best bet for parking is Monterosso. Much better to take the train which starts in La Spezia and stops at all the villages. And if you are car-free, get the train from Florence to La Spezia and go from there. But you MUST stay at one of the villages for 2-3 days to truly get the feel of the place.
When we were there for two nights, unfortunately it rained the first day, but the second was glorious and the hike from Vernazza (home base) to Corniglia, Manarola and back was pretty special. Think walking on a trail-for-two along a 60˚ sloping terrain, with terraced olive orchards, vineyards, and the occasional lemon tree above you, the whole, held up by stout stone walls, and the on the other, the cliffside plunging into the Mediterranean.
Occasionally you would come around a corner and through a nice break in the seaward vegetation you could see the entire coastline. You would start, always from sea level and climb to about 500 feet, then around canyon corners, and eventually back down again. Medium fitness level is required, bring water. You will need a “Trekking Card”, about 6 Euros, used to maintain the trails.
Of course, originally these were trails for the inhabitants of the villages to get from one to the other and to tend to their vineyards and olive groves – as such there are several trails some lower, some higher.
Our B&B served suppers as well, and that first evening we had the most delicious angel-hair pasta with basil pesto – the most delicate flavor of basil, lightly green with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and shavings of parmesan…yummy, and that was just the starter. Dig in to the fresh seafood on offer in the Cinque Terre, fresh from the sea.
The longest hike is from Monterosso to Vernazza, and it begins with a steep climb, but there is reward waiting – Angelo Celsi has a lemonade stand on the trail. He serves lemonade and orange juice from his own orchards (with or without a kick) to thirsty hikers (2.5 million in 2016) – I figure it must be the most lucrative lemonade stand in the world.
When you arrive in Vernazza, rest your tired feet at Il Gambero Rosso right on the tiny square/harbor, and have some of those gamberos for lunch with a glass of the locally grown white wine like “Percio” if they have it. However, if the seafront is packed, head up to Batti-Batti for the widest, I mean widest and best selection of focaccia in the Cinque Terre. Take your time, look around, soak n the ambiance, buy a few baubles to remind you of this visit.
From Vernazza, climb past the lookout tower (no threatening Saracen pirates these days) and on to Corniglia. Just about the time when you’re flagging and parched, about half way, an oasis appears around the bend: Il Gabbiano, a little hole-in-the-wall restaurant with full-service bar, with a patio and drop-dead scenery. If you haven’t had breakfast (or lunch) in Vernazza, you might stop for their focaccia or pizzas with the local beer. And…if you’ve never had a bite sitting next to a cliff-side, this is the place for you.
Corniglia is the only Cinque Terre town without a harbor, sitting on its crag. Well, you’ve had a drink, a snack…it’s time for dessert, and as this is Italy, it’s time for ice cream, and the best in town is Alberto Gelateria, Trip Advisors Travellers’ Choice for 2016 & 2020. On a hot summer’s day, this hits the spot. More than just ice cream, Alberto serves fruity drinks and crepes (with gelato, if you wish).
This would be a good place to stop for the day and return to your inn by train, as the next stretch could be strenuous, depending on if the coast road (easy) is open, or if you have to take the high road – much longer and higher (for the very fit) but if you take it, towards the end you are rewarded by descending through terraced vineyards left and right. Oh, and by the way, this route also passes through that orphan of the Cinque Terre: Volastra, at 1500ft!! If you pass on this option and the coast route is closed, take the train, there is one every twenty minutes.
Manarola has a wine bar on every corner – for such a small place, it has a lot of corners – no surprise as it has all these vineyards above it (which you may have descended through). Take your pick, one of the best located is Nessum Dorma (yes, the famous tenor solo from the Opera Turandot) offers tastings from a wide range of Cinque Terre wines…try to see if you can taste (buy) a bottle of Vendemmia, a white blend of bosco, vermentino and albarola grapes. They also serve excellent food on their cliff-side terrace.
The way from Manarola to Riomaggiore is a 30 minute stroll along the coast – the Via del’Amore.
Second largest of the villages, Riomaggiore has all the amenities of the other four except more. A must-must is the ferry ride from Riomaggiore to Monterosso, not too expensive by Cinque Terre Ferries.
So here are your eight bucket list things to do in the Cinque Terre:
· Hike, Hike, Hike
· Eat at Nessun Dorma in Manarola
· Find those perfect spots for pictures
· Climb to the Convert of Capuchin Friars (ooffff) and admire the view - Monterosso
· Sunbathe, snorkel and swim at the Playa Fegina in Monterosso
· Climb the 360 steps to Corniglia
· Take the ferry ride.
· Tell your friends about this travel blog (just kidding) – no really, do!!
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