OK, so they are not so long as The West Highland Way nor Shakespeare’s Way, but the views are outstanding.
Last stop before Italy is the wealthy town of Menton which extends a bit westward to Cap-Martin, a peninsula…actually all three of these walks are around peninsulae… but the only other hikes on offer, were rather strenuous climbs into the hills behind the coastal town.
This is a very nice walk starting at Plage de Carnolès (with boardwalk) on the east side of the Cap, and ends, after doing the circuit just before you hit the train tracks coming out of its tunnel, on the west side of the peninsula, along the way you are treated to stunning views of the Menton coast, and once around the ‘Cap’, equally fabulous views of Monaco across the bay. You should really exit the trail just before the train tracks, a trail junction to the right, which takes you back into the town of Cap-Martin. Your exit point will bring you back to Av Virginie Heriot, (turn right), which connects to Winston Churchill and you can ogle, OK, view, the Belle Epoque dwellings and mansions along the way back to the point of the Cap. By now, you have probably worked up a thirst and should stop at the impeccably placed Vista Playa restaurant for refreshments, but you won’t find beer at this establishment. The high prices for a glass of vin are worth it, just for the view. Once suitably refreshed, make your way back to your starting point at the Plage.
We stayed in a Gite de France in Upper Nice town with easy access to the Promenade des Anglais (tells you a lot about who was going to Nice in the late 19th century), this must have been the quintessential place to be seen if you were rich and British other than, perhaps strolling The Mall in London. It is a great walk, from west to east: 5 Km to the hill with the ‘castle’ at the east end of the bay. A climb to the top is a must for great views of the Promenade and the Bay of Angels to the west and on the east side, the yacht basin.
Hard by the castle hill on rue Saleya is the daily Cours Saleya Market where Tuesday to Sunday in the morning until 1 PM, the local farmers and artisans of every sort bring their wares. Of note, at the east end of the market are the Organic growers, including a M. Pierre Magnani who grows his 54 varieties of tomatoes in the hills above the town. Here, early in the morning you may rub shoulders with famous local chefs picking the best of the best. Here you can collect a nice picnic lunch with some of Pierre’s tomatoes, a local cheese or two, some duck paté, olives, a fresh baguette, and head up to the shade afforded by the top of the castle hill. Yum! But, of course, before you do, no picnic would ever be complete without a verre de vin, and just another few steps away, on rue de la Prefecture is Les Grand Caves Caprioglio., which has to be pretty unique. Not only does it have a huge selection of low, mid, high, and very high (behind glass) priced bottles of wine, but down the left side of the store is a bank of twelve huge tuns of vin ordinaire, from all regions of France, where you can fill your 1.5 Liter plastic (water) bottle for €3 – best bargain in the town.
On Mondays, the Cours Saleya transforms into an Antiques market, where haggling is de rigueur, whereas for food it would be très gauche. A polite Bonjour Monsieur/Madame will guarantee you a fair price.
For a supper par excellence, head over to Cafè de Turin on Place Garibaldi, at the edge of the Old Quarter serving their oysters and seafood platters since 1908, the oldest restaurant in Nice (supposedly – I’m sure others will disagree).
Have you noticed the Italian influence… well a long stroll into and around the Old Quarter will remind you that this place changed hands between France and Italy a ‘few’ times over the centuries. Narrow streets, hanging washing, flower pots – charming.
Feels a bit like a hill town in Italy.
Between Nice and Cannes lies Antibes, and due south is Cap d’Antibes, a peninsula jutting into the Mediterranean and another playground for the rich and famous. Antibes old-town is picturesque with narrow winding streets full of shops and restaurants. Cap d’Antibes is more residential and our Sentier du Littoral, a 5 Km coastal walk starts at Plage de la Garoupe. This is a more rugged, rockier but manageable path – good footwear required – no flip-flops. There will be some lovely beaches, luxurious homes, waterside café-bars and hotels along the way. Especially the ultra-expensive Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc. Standard rooms from $1100-$4100USD/day, but, hey, it’s only a 4 Km walk to Musée Picasso. Your exit is at Chemin des Douanniers, then head north and east to your starting point. More ogling.
No one can be in this corner of the world, without visiting the mountain-top medieval town of Eze, sitting high above the sea between Monaco and Nice. Founded by the Phoenicians, contended over by Romans, Moors, Christians, then pulled back and forth between France and Italy.
The small medieval village is famous for its beauty and charm, hosting many small boutique hotels, restaurants, arts galleries, chic clothing stores, and the view of the Mediterranean Sea and coastline is unparalleled from its chateau. Besides all the arty shops, you must visit the Parfumerie Fragonard. A tour of the perfume factory includes a visit to the cosmetics laboratory where the brand’s creams and other skin care products are made. The mother house is located in Grasse, just north of Cannes, where the International Museum of Perfumery is located.
Built entirely from stone, this ‘museum town’ has it all – every corner you turn has something amazing to see, the architecture, the archways, the abundant flowers, its Jardin Exotique, great for an extended stroll.
Our last peninsular walk takes us around St-Jean-Cap-Ferat just east of Nice. Starting at the small fishing port and yacht club in Cap-Ferat and heading south along the beach, the trail can be rocky and scrambly in parts with narrow stairs up and down, but negligible elevation gains. At the tip of the Cap is La Grande Hotel de Cap Ferat (you can’t miss it), around the corner will be the lighthouse, then to Passable Beach and back across th peninsula to your starting point. Should take, more or less two hours (another 5K walk). The rich and famous (did I mention that before) live here and you can visit the Villa et Jardins de Ephrussi de Rothschild, of hyper-wealthy European banking fame. Very worth the time…but, villa? my eye!!
The French Riviera is associated with all sorts, heroes (James Bond, OK, he’s not real, so what) and villains (Lenin), movie idols (Brad Pitt, Johnny Depp), philosophers (Nietzsche), writers (Chekhov), princes (Rainier & Grace Kelly) and peasants, revolutionaries (Marx) and artists (Jagger, Cezanne, Picasso)… and this year, it could be you! Omicron be da**ed.
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