A gem in the heart of Europe
Slovenia is small – somewhat smaller than New Hampshire, but it sure packs a punch in scenery. You don’t need to be a hiking junkie to appreciate Slovenia’s outdoors, but it is an asset. With the Alps to the north, the Adriatic Sea to the east, lakes, caves, vineyards and rolling farmland everywhere else, a visit to Slovenia will not be forgotten.
One of the best things about Slovenia is that it is off the usual tourist routes, and yet it has so much to offer. Its southern neighbour Croatia has flashy Dubrovnik (mind you, not to be sneezed at), but, so far, Slovenia has been mostly under the radar. As a result, it’s generally cheaper than its neighbours.
You could fly to Ljubljana, the capital, through a European connection, (expensive) but my choice is to fly into Venice (cheaper), just across the border. What could be better than to spend 2-3 days exploring Venice before taking off across the border.
Unfortunately, our flight out of Montreal (10:30 PM) encountered a major glitch. With everyone on board, the attendants smelled smoke - everybody off, leaving bags. Hours later with carry-ons in hand we were returning home to get a couple of hours of shut-eye to return to a 7 AM take off on a different plane (our baggage was transferred). This wrecked the next day's plans, and we had to find a hotel for a night in a Venice airport hotel, change car rental plans, and cancel one day in our destination. We were absolutely wrecked on arrival at 4 PM - too long a drive to Slovenia. However, after a good supper and sleep, off to Slovenia.
Postojna Cave, Predjama Castle, Lake Bled and Logarska Dolina (Valley)
You could just take the train from Venice to Ljubljana, and make day trips to these amazing sites, but we prefer to rent a car and have total freedom of travel – stop, have lunch at a roadside restaurant with an amazing view, visit a vineyard, sample the local olive oil right where it is cold-pressed…and the very last stop on this itinerary can only be accessed by car.
A bit more than two hours from Venice, on the way to Ljubljana is the most extensive cave system in Europe at 24 Kilometers long: Postojna. Reserve your ticket on line (€24). A little cave train takes you 3.5 Km into the cave, and then you can wander another 1.5 Km through stalagmites and stalactites. The temperature of the cave is a constant 10 C, so bring warm clothing. If you wish, after the drive and cave visit, spend the night at the Jama Hotel next door.
A short hop (10Km) away, the next morning perhaps, is one of the most fascinating castles in the world: Predjama Cave Castle, originally built over 800 years ago. Destroyed by assault and earthquakes, the present and final Renaissance form was constructed in 1570. Its most famous (and nasty) owner was Erasmus of Lueg, son of the imperial governor of Trieste, who became a renowned robber baron. Eventually, he ticked off the Imperial family, and came to a nasty end in his privy. As the castle's name suggests there is an extensive cave system right behind the castle – four stories high – and secret passages leading to escape routes on the top of the cliff behind the castle. After a quick visit, or not (not a lot to see inside), the next destination is magnificently situated Lake Bled, about an hour and fifteen minute drive passing through the outskirts of Ljubljana on the way.
I just had to start this section off with a picture of Lake Bled, at the foothills of the Julian Alps, not far from Austria. Lake Bled deserves a minimum of two days or more. Sitting imposingly on its high crag by the side of the lake is Bled Castle, affording fabulous views of the lake/island and the Julian Alps. The castle chapel is notable for its frescos.
The lake is super clean, due to the fact that the lake is fed by streams from the Alps and is off limits to motorized boats. The island-in-the-middle-of-the-lake has a lovely church and may be reached by rented oared boats, or you can pay to have yourself oared over, gondola style, in a pletna boat, (€12 per person) There has been a church here since the ninth century, Before that, the site had a pagan temple and altar dedicated to Ziva, the ancient Slavic goddess of love & fertility. The church door is exactly 99 steps from the water’s edge - you can get married in the church but tradition holds that the groom MUST carry the bride to the top. Yah!
A top to-do is to walk around the island (6 Kms) and it can be done in a couple hours, but there are things to see, restaurants to sample, parks to sit in along the way…Stroll, allow yourself plenty of time.
There are many attractions around the lake but we chose to visit Vintnar Gorge – 6 Kms to the north – with boardwalks clinging to the sides of the gorge occasionally crossing over and with roaring waters below, it’s a special walk. Don’t forget your camera! It’s about 3 Kms round trip – look for the brook trout in the calmer eddies. Busiest times are July and August but the best time is late spring when the river is really roaring.
It’s always a good time to talk about food, and as we are in Slovenia, we must talk about the signature dessert: Kremsnita (Slovenian Cream Cake), a scrumptious and decadently over the top take on the French Mille-Feuille. With flaky pastry on the bottom, a custardy middle layer, topped with another layer of whipped cream, then more flaky pastry drizzled with icing sugar, it is about twice the height of a Mille Feuille, and packs a million calories – to die for!! One of these was more than enough for both Vicky and I to share. Check out the recipe.
As for main courses, flavours from Austria in the North, Croatia to the south, Hungary to the east and Italy to the west combine and collide in Slovenia. Schitzels, sauerkraut, sausages, paprika beef stews, pizzas, seafood, garlic, olive oil, palacsintas (Hungarian pancakes), ‘Jota’ hearty stews, goulash, buckwheat dumplings, struklji a sort-of strudel as well as local cheeses are the just the tip of the iceberg. One will eat well. We truly enjoyed our meals at the Spica Bar & Restaurant, called a “new hidden gem in Bled” with a large patio close to the water and a fine view - on cool evenings, they provide blankets!! Try the Hirter lager from across the border in Austria.
Finally, one and a half hours by car due north of the capital, Ljubljana is the pretty Logarska Dolina (Valley). Even getting there is nice as the view changes and the hills become higher as you are, once again, approaching an outlier of the Julian Alps. Interestingly, the valley, which lies north-south, is approached from the north, close to the Austrian border. You enter a broad valley near a small chapel and head south along a good paved road passing farm stays and inns, offering accommodations.
As you traverse the 4 Km route, the valley narrows down and the mountains rear. Eventually the road becomes a good dirt road which dead-ends at a parking lot, from where hiking trails start into the mountains.
An easy trek gets you to Rinka Falls, highest in Slovenia, and a more moderate hike, with a 900 feet(!!) elevation rise, will lead to the Frischauf Lodge (Phone: +386 (0)3 4924 850) - head towards the Okreselj signpost -, originally built in 1876, rebuilt a couple of times since then, with spectacular views of the entire valley. The Lodge offers private rooms and some dorms.
Oh, and there is the capital, Ljubljana, but that’s for another time.
Great scenery, friendly people, good eats, close to international gateways, Slovenia must be discovered. Go!
Hozzászólások