Travel! What is your idea of a satisfying trip? Some will go for cruises – see as many places as possible (for a few hours), then enjoy the ship’s multiple offerings. Some will go for a beach vacation – sun and sand can’t be beat… Others opt for off-beat, quirky places, the unusual, the unforgettable, whether in nature or in town. Yet others look for history – buildings and places associated with important events.
All these (except the cruise 😊) are found in Virginia at the Historic Triangle. Three places steeped in history – tragedy, triumph, perseverance, bondage, freedom – all came together in a small area of this state… Jamestown, Williamsburg and Yorktown … and for those seeking more, and why not, close by, there is Virginia Beach, Busch Gardens, Water Country USA, and a wealth of wineries to explore. Roughly four million tourists visit the attractions of the Historic Triangle annually.
The future United States of America began life in 1607 with the arrival in the James River area of Chesapeake Bay of three ships from England: the Susan Constant, the Discovery and the Godspeed. Replicas of these ships can be visited at the Jamestown Settlement, a living history museum, that also includes replicas of the original triangular fort that the settlers built, a Powhatan Native American village, the Museum itself with the history and artifacts found in and around the area, as well as, recreated colonists’ town. What really struck us was how small the three ships were – to dare to make these old and dangerous trans-Atlantic voyages.
The three ships with 104 settlers took a particularly long four months to make the crossing, stopping in the Canaries, Puerto Rico and finally, the James River estuary. They chose a particularly unsuitable piece of land for their settlement, as the area was mostly swampy (to this day) - the Powhatan Indians did not think it suitable for agriculture. The water was brackish and the area was plagued by mosquitoes, they also arrived too late in the year to plant any crops. Moreover, most of the men were ‘gentlemen’ and their servants who had never farmed in their lives. To add insult to injury, they arrived at a period of great drought in eastern America, which lasted a number of years. The result was a disaster. Two-thirds of the colonists died of starvation and disease before supply ships arrived with supplies and craftsmen. Even so, by 1610, only 60 of the original total of 214 settlers survived, some in very bad shape. Deciding to abandon the settlement, they boarded two ships for home only to be met by the third supply fleet, whose commander turned them around and Jamestown was rebuilt.
The saving grace of the colony was tobacco. Seeds from Bermuda were planted and became a strong cash crop traded back to Britain. Despite frequent Indian attacks the settlement became self-supporting and expanded to higher ground at the Powhatans’ expense. The sad history of slavery began in 1619 with the arrival of the first Africans.
In 1698 the statehouse in Jamestown burned down, for the second time and it was decided to move it to Middle Plantation founded in 1632, about 8 miles inland on high ground between the James and York rivers. Soon afterwards the fortified town was renamed Williamsburg and a Capital building and Governor’s Palace were built.
It remained the Capital of the colony until 1780 when the Capital was moved to Richmond. The move doomed Jamestown to gradual obsolescence and eventual disappearance. Williamsburg grew and prospered as more plantations were established, and in time became the center of political intrigue and events in Virginia leading to the American Revolution.
Colonial Williamsburg is a living-history museum on its 300-acre area and includes several hundred restored or re-created buildings from the 18th century, when the city was the capital of Colonial Virginia. A car-free place, it is an interpretation of a colonial American city. The historic area includes three main thoroughfares and their connecting side street a total of 20 square blocks and recreates the atmosphere of that time. (The Canadian equivalent, though much smaller is Upper Canada Village). Costumed employees work and dress as people did in the era.
The entire area can be walked free of charge and thus enjoy the various outdoor entertainments, but to enter into the various recreated businesses, tickets may be purchased at the Colonial Williamsburg Center, which entitle you to enter all the various exhibits.
A small sample: the apothecary, gunsmith’s shop, carpenters, brickmakers, general store, bakery, silversmith, taverns, wigmaker, shoemaker, weavers, etc. – all with personae of the period. You can fire a musket, listen to a rabble-rouser attacking King George.
Listen to talks about slavery, native Indians, watch the local militia drill, have supper at one of the taverns, have a carriage ride, or watch entertainments at the Playhouse. There is live music most evenings on the market square.
Actually, four working taverns have been re-created and two also serve as inns. Supper at the King’s Arms Tavern included live music and a person in period costume walking between the tables entertaining us with stories of the past owner of the Inn, who would give up to a year’s credit to her customers.
The Public Gaol served as the jail. Former notorious inmates include the pirate Blackbeard's crew who were kept in the 1704 jail while they awaited trial.
The museum has a collection of colonial coins from Britain, Spain, and from various States before and after the Revolutionary war as well as furniture and crafts of the period, and a fine collection of muskets. Williamsburg had the first public hospital for the mentally insane, as they called it then, opened in 1773, on its restored location and has a collection of rather gruesome-looking restraining devices. The unfortunates were kept in cruel conditions. You should give yourself two days to do justice to the Williamsburg Colonial experience.
Yorktown marks the other end of the Historic Triangle, the place where England lost the final and decisive battle of the American Revolutionary War. There is yet another smaller interpretation center but, really there is not much to see. Some earthworks and redoubts have been rebuilt at the battlefield site, but it is really only a large open meadow today. It is hard to imagine that here, the fate of a large part of the continent was decided in a bloody battle that pitted the larger combined Colonial and French forces against a smaller, sicker, British army, surrounded and pinned against the York river with no possible escape.
Historic Yorktown Village sits on the banks of the York River, comprised first of Water Street, a small strip along of several indoor/outdoor restaurants on the riverbank offering pleasant views across to Gloucester Point. A park, a hotel, a pier, a riverwalk and an antique shop round out the picture.
The architecture of Main Street is almost exclusively original to the colonial era. Nine buildings, including the circa-1730 Nelson House and Somerwell House survive from the pre-Revolutionary period. The old court house, several small shops, the Nelson House, and the Yorktown Monument are located along this road.
Located between Williamsburg and Yorktown; voted the best amusement theme park in the world, Busch Gardens IS unique. The basic theme is Europe, but with thrilling coasters, shows for the entire family, classy dining, fireworks and unique seasonal offerings like Oktoberfest is it a great outing for the day. The Theme countries are England, Scotland, Ireland, Italy, Germany, France, and New France (i.e. us!). Each country has its own attractions, eateries, special shows, etc.
The Dark Castle is like a Haunted castle updated to the 21st century with amazing 4-D effects. There are fireworks every night at 9:30…. but the ‘pieces de resistances’ are the six enormous coasters…. for the brave. There are fifteen rides for the kiddies or their parents. The newest coaster being readied for the 2021 season is Pantheon, featuring four launches, five airtime hills, and a beyond 95-degree vertical drop. For coaster fans, like me, this looks like one sweet ride.
The so-called Globe Theatre in the English section, just as you walk in, shows a spoof on pirates. It’s a 4-D experience where you get a tiny spirt of water and a wind in your face at certain moments which, if unexpected, is a bit of a shock. The 3-D effects are exceptional. The Ireland section has “Europe from the Air”. The theatre seats about fifty people. It is a moveable platform and while you see on-the-screen Europe from the air, the whole platform bobs and weaves as the plane doing the filming does.
There are water parks and then there is Water Country USA. The theme is around 50’s, 60’s surf culture. There are eleven water features, some not found elsewhere. There is live entertainment and a spacious area with loungers for those seeking sun(burn). After sliding around all morning, the park offers several fast-food options and you might even want to bring home some souvenirs at the four kiosks available around a central hub. Great for ‘kids of all ages.’
A short drive brings you to Berkeley Plantation along the James River, first settled in 1619 but abandoned. Resettled in 1636, Benjamin Harrison, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence lived here. His son, William Henry Harrison, President of the United States was born here. The Georgian mansion contains lots of period furniture and mementos to the worthies who inhabited the house. A model of the early plantation buildings is on site. Worth a visit.
So, once you have had your fill of history and sun and sand and want to indulge in some ‘refreshment’, you might want to visit one of the 198 wineries across most of Virginia, with the majority located in the Raleigh/Smoky Mountains area – too much of a drive from Williamsburg. But closer to home base…one of the best-known, with a growing reputation, is the Williamsburg Winery, which produces “…some of the best wines in the world” according to Kevin Zraly, wine educator.
Established in 1983, first vintage was in 1987. They cultivate 50 acres onsite and lease land in twelve other vineyards. The varietals are Merlot, Vidal Blanc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. In all, fifteen different varietals are grown to produce some 60,000 cases annually. 45-60% of their grapes come from the western part of the state and the Chardonnay from the eastern shore, on the other side of the bay. The style and character of the Winery’s wines are closer to Old World styles with the emphasis on elegance instead of brute power. The winery has received several awards from tastings at the Decanter World-Wide Awards. However, these wines are not cheap. For example, their 2017 ‘Adagio’ a blend of Cab Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Tannat sets you back USD 68 – ouch.
On site is the Gabriel Archer Tavern which serves fine dining fare. Gabriel Archer was the co-captain of the God-Speed, Santa-Maria and Discovery (1607). This land was his property. They serve wine-and-dines every thursday night.
Check out their luxury accommodations with wood-burning fireplaces (in season), different antiques and tapestries, swimming pool, etc.
For the golfers among us, the Williamsburg area has lots of well-priced courses. Golf-and-stay packages to Williamsburg can provide plenty of golf with challenging courses set among beautiful tracts of land that are truly a pleasure to play. A couple of examples (prices in USD):
And if you still need more reasons to visit, just down the road, some sixty miles away is Virginia Beach – eight miles of sand and surf with a huge choice of accommodations and eateries.
A week here just lazing away the day with a good book --- not too shabby either.
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